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  1. #1
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    HELP! Installing rear ball joint and I'm stuck...

    Alright fellas, I'm trying to install my new rear ball joints and I have all the necessary tools to do it, but I'm having difficulty pressing it out. I don't know if the joints are so rusted inside that I can't get them out ---OR--- am i pressing the wrong way?? That is, are they supposed to come out towards the rear, or towards the front.

    This is what I've done so far...

    1) Removed the circlate (which is on the rear side of the ball joint)
    2) I removed both sides of the rubber boots

    From what I've seen in the YouTube video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MG8jkWMsQw4), it appears that the BJ comes out towards the FRONT of the car, but from where I'm looking at MY car, the larger metal ring around the OLD BJ is at the rear, so it looks as if it should come out from the REAR? Does this make sense?

    My question is this, the YouTube video makes it look so easy for the BJ to come out. Is this accurate for most of you? Or do I gradually keep tension on the BJ pressing tool, wait, tense it again, then again wait for it to loosen up before it comes out?

    Any suggestions you have would help.

    Thanks again.

  2. #2
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    Member No: 4328 jimlev will become famous soon enough jimlev will become famous soon enough jimlev's Avatar
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    Looks so easy doesn't it? (m)

    The end that has the circlip on it should be at the back end. After you remove the clip the tool will push the BJ forward to remove.
    Installation is just the opposite as shown in the video.
    It will fit in either way, however I don't think that the center section will fit in because the back side of the BJ has a flat surface for the swing arm to ride on and the front side has an extension for the middle tube to fit around.
    Yours is probably corroded, spray some penetrating oil on it and let it sit. Don't use any heat, it will weaken the aluminum.

    Use the (insert link) for URL's. You can also name then so the link itself doesn't show up.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MG8jkWMsQw4

    Same link, just named.

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    Re: Looks so easy doesn't it? (m)

    Thanks Jim for your input, I did spray some penetrating lubricant on the BJs and letting it sit overnight.

    I see that on my new BJ (as well as the BJ in the video) that the male end of the BJ also has the larger rim on its side which would flush with the carrier when properly inserted. But for some reason, when I look at my OLD BJ, the male side of the BJ faces the front (as it should) but the larger rim appears at the back, and flushes with the carrier, hence why I was getting confused as to which side I'm supposed to push it out, front or back. Do you know what I mean?. Since the BJs are corroded, I just can't tell if this larger rim is part of the BJ or part of the carrier? But these are the original BJ's so I can only assume that it would push forward like all the others.


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    Yes, push forward to remove, this should help U (m

    From my spare parts collection......






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    Re: Yes, push forward to remove, this should help U (m

    Thanks again Jim! Your photos here are a great help! That ring where the circlip sits under I thought was part of the BJ collar itself, but I can see now that it's part of the carrier. Hence this is why I was confused where to push it out.

    Wish me luck as I'm off the attempt this frustrating repair again!

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    Damn Jim! You are a wealth of info and the

    pictures...all I can say is damn!!! You rock. Wish you worked for Bentley; it would be a far better manual if you did.Fritracer
    Cincinnati, OH
    2000 540ia Sport Package 9/99 Silver/Black
    1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 420 stroker w/6 Pak 430 HP,
    510 lbft torque

  7. #7
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    Gotta do something 4the 4 months I don't drive it






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    Torque 256Nm (188 ft-lb)

    JimLev,

    Watching the youtube video you link, they say the torque is 256Nm (188 ft-lb) for the long bolt holding the balljoint to the carrier:

    Is that true?


    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MG8jkWMsQw4

  9. #9
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    Yes | No

    Yes, close enough. 188.8 if U are looking 4 exact






    "Drive It Like You Stole It, A Sickness for Quickness"
    The Bottle Rocket "King of Spray" 2 Stage Nitrous Oxide
    Dare to be different and stand out among the crowd of me-to-cars!
    No guts, no glory! Tire smoke, not traction control!
    Zionsville all aluminum radiator to replace the 3 leak prone Nissens Radiators!

    NOS Progressive 2 Stage Controller with port injection
    Snow's Performance Methanol/Water Injection
    Dinan downloads, VAC Under Drive Pulleys
    Dinan Carbon Fiber CAI
    Dinan Front Strut Bar
    Electric Cooling Fan w/PWM controller
    NGK Iridium Plugs
    DDE Enhanced Angel Eyes, Smoked Lenses
    Koni FSD's/H&R Springs, BAV Brass Caliper Bushings
    Eisenmann Race Exhaust (from H8-Rain's car)
    ///M5 3.15 LSD
    ///M5 Sway Bars, Front & Rear
    Energy Suspension Polyurethane Sway Bar Bushings
    ///M5 Gauge Cluster Rings ///M5 Lip Spoiler
    ///M5 Mirrors and Switches
    Leather Z weighted shift knob (thanks H8-Rain)
    Rogue “Octane” Short Shift kit w/WSR
    Rogue Tranny Mounts
    StopTech Brake Lines Front & Rear
    Axxis Deluxe Plus pads Front & Rear
    Staggered M Parallel 66, Xenons
    Modified CDV, UGDO
    Euro Storage Tray (thanks Zombywolf)
    Redline in Diff and Tranny
    Passport 8500 X50, Escort ZR3 Laser Jammer
    G-Tech/Competition Pro Data Logger
    Auto Enginuity OBD-II Scan Tool
    25% Tint, X-Pel, LoJack
    PIAA Driving Lights
    35W Xenon backup bulbs
    BMW CCA Member Boston Chapter

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