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    Shark has sat around for six years or so -- what to do before taking her out?

    Ahh yes, my third shark...

    She sat since the day I've bought her as I was disappointed in her. There was a grinding noise during driving, and if I remember correctly, I attributed it, at least in part, to steering. The noise came from the driver's side front seat somewhere under tge floor. I remember thinking: probably a steering box. Then the starter died and she spent last few years being ignored.

    So my buddy and I started working on her as the weather warmed up and maybe we can ready her for Sharkfest. After we replaced the starter she cranked with a half turn, but was promptly shut off as to not foul the injectors and other things with old fuel.

    After such a lengthy stay, what do you guys think needs replacement? A list with all the things would be great help.
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    I would start by draining the gas and putting in new, new fuel filter, change engine oil and transmission, power steering and diff fluids. Inspect the tires well for flat-spotting and dry rot. Flush brake fluid. Inspect all coolant hoses. Inspect all rubber bushings (upper and lower front control arms, sway bar mounting bushings, cv boots and trailing arm bushings to make sure none have disintegrated.

    Might need a new battery as well.

    As far as the grinding noise, it could be a lot of things. The steering box is unlikely as it would only grind while turning. Power steering pump is a possibility though. You can remove the belt and see if the grinding goes away.

    Hope this helps. Would really like to have you drive down with us to Sharkfest.!
    Scott Jancura

    1988 M6 - Euro M5 S38B38 engine and 6 speed conversion
    1997 540i - Dinan supercharged and Stage 3 suspension, full M5 body kit and brakes
    1988 325ix - snowmobile
    1999 M3 convertible (wife's car)
    1991 525i (wife's car)
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    Make sure there are no rodent nestings in the intakes for the engine and cabin air.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ScottJ View Post
    As far as the grinding noise, it could be a lot of things. The steering box is unlikely as it would only grind while turning. Power steering pump is a possibility though. You can remove the belt and see if the grinding goes away.

    Hope this helps. Would really like to have you drive down with us to Sharkfest.!
    Wes was having a similar problem few years ago: http://forum.roadfly.com/threads/108...1#post10871494
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    Flush gas + seafoam
    inspect fuel lines (8mm right?)
    lubromolly in the intake
    new oil (mobil1 synt?)
    new vac lines (dry rot)
    ATF for trans (reg off the shelf kind?)
    ATF for P/S
    Check P/S hoses for leaks
    Flush coolant (flush additives?) (BMW blue?)
    Inspect coolant hoses
    Diff fluid (what kind?)
    Flush DOT3 synth
    Check disks and pads
    Windshield wiper fluid
    Inspect tires

    Rubber bushings on upper control arms
    Rubber bushings on lower control arms
    Sway bar mounting bushings
    Trailing arm bushings
    CV boots
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    Flush gas + seafoam
    Definitely dump the old fuel and replace.
    Seafoam is a good idea .

    inspect fuel lines (8mm right?)
    Always a good idea. Make sure that all fuel line hose clamps are solid ring injector type. P.O.'s do the damnedest things :(
    Yes, 8 mm is correct but SAE 5/16 works too ....what is top important is that you get injector grade line (good to at least 100 psi) and not just garden variety 'fuel hose'. I spend the big bucks at my dealer to get the right stuff as carBQ's fill me with fear & loathing.

    lubromolly in the intake
    no idea what you are talking about.

    new oil (mobil1 synt?)
    On an unknown motor I'd stick with a good dino oil like Castrol. However if you are sure the car has synth already then Mobil1 15W50 is fine for warm weather driving but consider getting the ZDDP additive now available to keep the lifters happy.

    new vac lines (dry rot)
    Sure, why not. They're cheap and you can get them in lurid colours now that will impress skanky ho's at the mall.

    ATF for trans (reg off the shelf kind?)
    No idea..I hate AT's. Fill it with olive oil so it burns out and forces you to replace it with a 5 speed :)

    ATF for P/S
    Correct. Replace the PS fluid filter (lives at the bottom of the PS reservoir) too with a new one .

    Check P/S hoses for leaks.
    Sure but the car will tell you quickly enogh if they are leaking.

    Flush coolant (flush additives?) (BMW blue?)
    Flush the whole system very thoroughly and replace coolant. Xerex or Pentosin non phosphate are fine. You don't need to spend the big bucks on dealer BMW fluid.

    Inspect coolant hoses.
    Absolutely. I would change them all on general principles although getting at the lot and the T connector under the air manifold would be a hoor of a job without removing the air manifols...another hoor of a job.

    Diff fluid (what kind?)
    Any good quality GL 5 gear oil.....I like the Pentosin brand.

    Flush DOT3 synth
    Check disks and pads.


    Yes & yes. Depending on where the car was stored brakes can rust and seize up badly. Check the emergency brake too for binding.

    Windshield wiper fluid

    Replace with 5 parts gin to 1 part dry vermouth and keep a jar of olives in the glove box.

    Inspect tires

    After insecting them , replace them no matter how good they look. Rubber perishes wthout being driven on.

    Rubber bushings on upper control arms
    Rubber bushings on lower control arms
    Sway bar mounting bushings
    Trailing arm bushings
    CV boots


    Certainly have a close inspection of them all . Driving the car will tell you in short order what needs refreshing.
    1985 5 sp 635 CSi A TCD Stage II
    1994 Audi ur S4
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    Good point about the rodents,,,def check for droppings around the cover for the heater blower.

    JoeG
    84 633CSi Auto
    85 635CSi 5spd
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    Rodents left no surprises as far as I could tell. On my first shark though, they've built a palace! Little fockers.

    I won't have the budget to change tires. I'll dress them up with oils and such, but from what I can tell dry-rot is mainly concentrated on electrical connections (sobs) and vac hoses.

    So about those color vac lines and h0es at the mall...do you just pop the hood in the mall's parking lot and they flock to you like zombies? This is probably the most useful tip one guy can give another about his car ;)
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    Lubro Moly makes excellent stuff...I use their motor oil in my ur S4...but if you're going to Seafoam it seems redundant.

    do you just pop the hood in the mall's parking lot and they flock to you like zombies?
    Absolutely !! It's like 'Night Of the Living Ho's' ..... kind of scary actually. I bought a few meters of electric blue vac hose this winter that I'll be installing shortly once I get my car out of storage but already I have to keep a fully charged cattle prod under the front sea to keep them at bay and from siphoning off my precious bodily fluids.
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    Could this be Taylor flossin' his Stage 2 setup?
    Muahahahaha

    ******* awesome man!
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    OK today is the big daaaay! Maybe she'll be alowed out today!
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    Sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo ooo.....................what happened ?
    I pulled mine out of storage on Saturday and the steering pump imploded immediately :(
    1985 5 sp 635 CSi A TCD Stage II
    1994 Audi ur S4
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    Okay started got her out seafoam full tank of gas vac hoses coolant hose oil coolant.

    Starts cold and sometimes warm runs when hot at idle backfired at higher rpms 3+

    Exhaust doesn't smell like gas.


    FPR?

    Injectors?

    Spark?
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    Now it won't even start warm...
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    FPR fixed the problem.

    Are the Orings for FPRs hard to find? I damaged my new one...
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    It's the same o ring as is used on the business end of your fuel injectors....P/N 13641730767.

    Should be easily available from your local dealer. They'll be a stupid price for what you get but unless you have other stuff you need to get up to the free shipping order value threshold offered by the usual after market on line suppliers then you might as well just go the dealer. I'm assuming here that you have the B34 motor. You should put your car model & year in your signature .
    I'm glad it was an easy fix for you to solve the rough running.
    1985 5 sp 635 CSi A TCD Stage II
    1994 Audi ur S4
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    K so to update everyone...

    Car runs pretty well. She was acting unhappy and misfiring but after driving around she cleared her throat!

    Now she starts with a half-key turn.
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    Another fine beast nursed back into action. Very cool, happy motoring.
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