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    door actuator stuck locked

    has anyone had to open the doors with a stuck door actuator? There has to be a way to open the door without damaging anything. Thanks.
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    Which door - it can make a difference on how to attack this issue.

    Also - if you can get inside the car have you tried pulling the interior door handle "twice"?

    Any other info about the circumstances can help diagnose the cause - before deciding to open the door.

    Cheers
    Jim Cash
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    rear passenger door has been getting flaky for a few months, and I was able to open it from the inside by pulling the handle twice. Now it just seems dead. No response from multiple sequences of door locking/unlocking and trying from the inside. Should the doors not unlock with power/battery removal, or can that actuator become stuck in a locked position? Thanks.
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    We just went throught that scenario with one of my sons cars an X3. What I did to get the doors to unlock was a Shogun reboot (removing the battery cables and shorting them together with the key in the on position for 10 minutes or so) After that the doors opened and the windows worked again. A couple of days later it happened again so we removed the module that controls doors and windows and sent it off for repair. Got it back and installed a month ago with no further problems. We chose the module because it was the least expensive and time consuming step. With internet troubleshooting we were possibly almost kinda pretty sure it was the module instead of the actuator.
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    On the E39 both front doors are individually controlled, but the rear door locks, and the trunk lock are all controlled together by the General Module (behind the glove box).
    But - all three of those actuators are wired "in parallel" to the relay in the GM - so in your case the fault has to be with the one door.

    And since you can not open it with 2 pulls of the interior latch then either you have a physical fault with the latch itself - or more likely it is the actuator that has failed in the "double locked" position.

    I have no "personal" experience with this issue - but do know that the normal fix requires removing the interior door trim to get to the latch and actuator. I understand that some people have been able to remove the trim with minimal damage - but that is an iffy process. Someone may chime in with their secret - or you can ask at your service centre what they do.

    But first I would try the oldest trick in the book on this type of thing - "hit it". In other words if it is a sticky relay, or a dirty contact in the actuator (most common) then I would try thumping the top rear corner of the door (by the latch area) with your fist while operating the lock/unlock feature via the remote (and or via the interior handle). You might get lucky and have it open - if you do I would not close it again (at least not lock it again) but open the door then and replace the actuator.

    Cheers
    Jim Cash
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    Door actuator

    Quote Originally Posted by 66.cobra View Post
    has anyone had to open the doors with a stuck door actuator? There has to be a way to open the door without damaging anything. Thanks.
    I have had this happen on two doors. It's the actuator for sure. You can get the interior panel off without opening the door. Remove the screw under the door latch. Pop loose as many of the edge clips as you can get to with a large, long screwdriver. Put your hands in there and give a mighty yank upward. You will break the remaining clips. The panel materials will not be damaged (however, I would pop off the wood trim) first.
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    Thank you for the information. It looks like I just have to be very carefull as I get the panel out.
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    I had an issue a couple years ago during the winter months. The rear doors would no longer unlock with the key remote or the central locking button. The front doors worked fine. I never bothered to try the two pulls from the inside, because I need to get in the car occasionally to transport stuff, not get out. It wasn't a frozen lock issue either, cause there were many times when the temps were well above freezing for an extended time. After a few months they started working again and have been fine ever since. Strange.
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