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  1. #1
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    ABS DSC module rebuild by Module Masters and DIY

    I got the tri-fecta of lights a while ago. DSC ABS and BRAKE lights. They would turn on every-time I took a drive, as soon as the car was warmed up the lights would turn on.

    When this happens you have 3 choices:

    1: Get a used module with the EXACT same part #. The downside is you will have a tamper dot on your gauge cluster and you will lose some random features that the module is tied into. Like cruise control, speed sensitive wipers and speed sensitive audio for dsp. Also heard that auto roll up windows have been lost. The upside and only upside is that you will spend less money. maybe $80-$100 for a used module.

    2: Buy a new module and have it coded by the dealer. Cheapest I found a new module is $485 from Mark @ eaceuroparts.com and Coding/activating at the dealer ranges from $60-$150 depends on how much the dealer respects a DIY'er. (now don't forget your going to be spending a nice chunk of change on a part that will most likely fail the same way again.)

    3: And best choice by far - Send it to ModuleMasters for $320 incl. shipping. No coding needed since it is your original module. They rebuild it with better parts and give you a 5 year warranty. They read the error codes for free and if it's not a problem with the module they will refund your money and send the module back to you with a print out of the errors. You can still drive the car without an ABS/DSC module but you will lose your speedo and a couple other important features along with the ABS and DSC. EDIT: You will also get a check engine light if you start/drive the car that will need to be cleared with a scanner tool after.

    (There are other companies out there other than Modulemasters that offer the same work at better prices, I chose module masters for the warranty and the extra mile they go to help if you have a problem. They helped a good friend of mine with a bad airbag module)

    I went with #3
    If you read the info on ModuleMasters.com you will find out this is a common heat related failure and can often be rebuilt. I was also told if the cruise control does NOT work they will NOT be able to fix it and you most likely have a bad speed sensor causing the "tri-fecta" If the CC works then they have an 80% chance of repairing it with better parts.

    First slide the connector clip out. Use a flat-head screwdriver and some leverage, the connector will come out upwards as you slide the clip out sideways.


    Remove the 6 T-20 screws and gently slide the module off.




    After that I just wrapped everything with a plastic bag since I wasn't going to be driving the car till the module came back. If you have to drive the car they say to wrap it with aluminum foil.
    The module itself must be packed up safely, I wrapped it with a static proof bag, if you don't have one just wrap it with aluminum foil. Make sure you pad the shipping box well. You dont want it to break on the way there. There's cylindrical parts that feel like they are mounted on springs in the module and don't look like they can take much abuse.

    After a couple of days you will get a call on the status of the error codes and if it can be rebuilt. I was told I had a fatal error code #23 which could either mean mine was unrepairable or it was just that it was on a bench being tested and didn't agree with their setup. They told me they still rebuilt it and wouldn't charge me anything till I had it installed and confirm after 50 miles that i didn't get any lights.

    Ok I got the module back and its nice and clean. You can see in this picture where they opened it up and resealed it very nice.


    If you drove the car at all while the module was out, make sure to blowout any dust that might of gotten in there. Then carefully slide the module back into place and re-install the torx screws.
    Next reconnect the harness CAREFULLY, there's really skinny pins in the module that can be bent and broken easily. Make sure the slider is fully out before you try to plug the harness in. Once you get the harness half way in then slide the lock back and it will pull down the connector with it.



    Start your car (Reset your check engine light if you started/drove the car without a module) and go for a nice drive, test your cruise control and drive long enough to make sure the lights dont come back on.

    GOOD NEWS for me everything is working fine and NO trouble lights!
    The Money shot. Disregard the rest of the motor. (I was still buttoning up the cooling system overhaul.)
    Last edited by horse325es; 08-09-2011 at 04:34 AM.
    Andreas
    Queens NY
    BMWCCA# 186796
    86 325es (wrecked by careless driver)
    87 325 300k (project for life) aka 1BADETA/Christine
    89 525i 190k Winter/Drift Poutana
    00 540is 6spd 224k (daily driver) Rebuilt at 212k (Chain guide Failure) Record holder!!
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  2. #2
    Gadjo Dilo
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    Yes | No
    From a thermal point of view, the positioning of this module has been poorly chosen by the BMW engineers. It's placed too close to the exhaust manifold. I guess the thermal stress as well as the hot-cold cycling (fatigue) will eventually kill the internal parts and/or its connections.

    It's interesting to note that quirks like this (failing ABS modules, dying cluster pixels) have spawned a whole after-market service industry which offer better and cheaper service than BMW itself. If you went to the dealer to get an 1:1 OEM replacement part, it would already have been pre-programmed to fail again within the foreseeable future.

    Nice write-up!
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  3. #3
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    Yah its one of the worst possible spots to put that module, dont understand why when it could of been mounted anywhere else in the car. I saw a car in 24hours lemons and they had the module mounted on a wooden board in the back seat pump and all!
    Andreas
    Queens NY
    BMWCCA# 186796
    86 325es (wrecked by careless driver)
    87 325 300k (project for life) aka 1BADETA/Christine
    89 525i 190k Winter/Drift Poutana
    00 540is 6spd 224k (daily driver) Rebuilt at 212k (Chain guide Failure) Record holder!!
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  4. #4
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    Member No: 4328 jimlev will become famous soon enough jimlev will become famous soon enough jimlev's Avatar
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    Whorse, nice write up. This is the first pics with your black krinkle finish valve covers. Looks good.
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  5. #5
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    I agree with Jim, you laid out the options and had all the necessary pictures. I like the black wrinkle finished valve covers too. We need a writeup on those next.
    Vin
    '97 540 6 Speed

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  6. #6
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    Thanks guys, I was planning on doing a write up on the VCG's and VC painting but it looks like i lost a bunch of pictures on a messed up memory card.
    I got almost everything for the painting write up but most of the VCG pictures got destroyed. Ill have something up by late tonight. damn this sux i even lost the tensionors and pulley pictures for a write up.
    Andreas
    Queens NY
    BMWCCA# 186796
    86 325es (wrecked by careless driver)
    87 325 300k (project for life) aka 1BADETA/Christine
    89 525i 190k Winter/Drift Poutana
    00 540is 6spd 224k (daily driver) Rebuilt at 212k (Chain guide Failure) Record holder!!
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  7. #7
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    Just to confirm my understanding of one point: since I have been driving my car while my ABS unit is being rebuilt, you are saying that when I reinstall it, my dash lights (CES, Brakes, ABS) will NOT go out automatically; I will have to have those reset once the rebuilt unit is in, correct? And then they should stay out for good?
    Thanks
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  8. #8
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    @zerodfx - If it's a rebuild of your own module, no re-coding is necessary. I drove mine with a broken module for 4 months, and for the 10 days while it was out of the car being rebuilt and mailed back and forth. No recoding necessary. (I just got mine rebuilt at MM last month)
    99 540iA Sport
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by zerodfx View Post
    Just to confirm my understanding of one point: since I have been driving my car while my ABS unit is being rebuilt, you are saying that when I reinstall it, my dash lights (CES, Brakes, ABS) will NOT go out automatically; I will have to have those reset once the rebuilt unit is in, correct? And then they should stay out for good?
    Thanks
    You will definitly have a "ces" light when the module is out, Most CES lights need to be cleared from memory but i dont know about this situation. I didn't even have the battery connected till the module came back since i was doing a ton of other repairs.
    Andreas
    Queens NY
    BMWCCA# 186796
    86 325es (wrecked by careless driver)
    87 325 300k (project for life) aka 1BADETA/Christine
    89 525i 190k Winter/Drift Poutana
    00 540is 6spd 224k (daily driver) Rebuilt at 212k (Chain guide Failure) Record holder!!
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  10. #10
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    Thre is an important semantic distinction here: reset vs. re-code.
    I am aware I do not have to have my unit re-coded as it was repaired and still has my VIN assigned to it.
    But do I need to have my "code computer" re-set in order to clear the tri-fecta lights (DSC, Brakes, ABS) from my dash even though the new unit is installed and functioning properly; unfortunately the lights are still showing on my dash.
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  11. #11
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    Thanks for the clarification - No, you shouldn't have to clear the lights

    As I recall, all my lights went out after a few ignition cycles.
    99 540iA Sport
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  12. #12
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    UPDATE
    900 Miles later I have all 3 lights on again. Im waiting on my INPA cable from ebay to retrieve the codes myself before i send it back to Module Masters.
    The night before the lights came on i hit a bad pothole on the pass. side. Hopefully its not a module problem, but if it is i will just code another module myself since i hopefully will be capable with the ebay cable.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_W0QQ...KQ3aMEWNXQ3aIT
    Andreas
    Queens NY
    BMWCCA# 186796
    86 325es (wrecked by careless driver)
    87 325 300k (project for life) aka 1BADETA/Christine
    89 525i 190k Winter/Drift Poutana
    00 540is 6spd 224k (daily driver) Rebuilt at 212k (Chain guide Failure) Record holder!!
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  13. #13
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    i had the same problem and got my module repaired. the speed and odo work now and CEL is off, but my ASC/ABS lights stay lit!!! have driven the car for 8 days now and over 200 miles...

    the lights should turn off by themselves so what else is going on??
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  14. #14
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    Rebuilt ABS module restores speedo, odo and extinguishes multiple warning lights, but

    50 miles later, car remains in TRANS FAILSAFE mode!

    New Peake codes have also appeared---D6 Speed not present, 08 Mass Airflow Sensor, 82--ABS-CAN1.

    But again, all gauges now working properly and warning lights gone.

    Am wondering if I need to reset something to leave TRANS FAILSAFE mode.

    Hope this info helps someone!


    Tom
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by horse325es View Post
    UPDATE
    900 Miles later I have all 3 lights on again. Im waiting on my INPA cable from ebay to retrieve the codes myself before i send it back to Module Masters.
    The night before the lights came on i hit a bad pothole on the pass. side. Hopefully its not a module problem, but if it is i will just code another module myself since i hopefully will be capable with the ebay cable.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_W0QQ...KQ3aMEWNXQ3aIT
    Oops forgot to update this,

    Got Inpa/ediabas running and i have one error present for the DSC which is front right speed sensor. I ordered a new speed sensor and im waiting for it to arrive. Im pretty sure this time it was just a speed sensor. I could of sent the module back to them but they would of ended up telling me the same thing. So far so good with ModuleMasters
    Andreas
    Queens NY
    BMWCCA# 186796
    86 325es (wrecked by careless driver)
    87 325 300k (project for life) aka 1BADETA/Christine
    89 525i 190k Winter/Drift Poutana
    00 540is 6spd 224k (daily driver) Rebuilt at 212k (Chain guide Failure) Record holder!!
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by icecoffeejedi View Post
    i had the same problem and got my module repaired. the speed and odo work now and CEL is off, but my ASC/ABS lights stay lit!!! have driven the car for 8 days now and over 200 miles...

    the lights should turn off by themselves so what else is going on??
    Did you follow procedure? disconnect the battery before installing the module? If you did then the lights are still on cause of another problem. In my case the speed sensor triggered the second trifecta of lights
    Andreas
    Queens NY
    BMWCCA# 186796
    86 325es (wrecked by careless driver)
    87 325 300k (project for life) aka 1BADETA/Christine
    89 525i 190k Winter/Drift Poutana
    00 540is 6spd 224k (daily driver) Rebuilt at 212k (Chain guide Failure) Record holder!!
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  17. #17
    Melissa335i
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    Yes | No

    how to tell if its the module or pump?

    Hi,
    I have read a lot on this issue but still have a question, and this is the best thread I've found on the topic.

    I have a 335i 2008 that is trowing the codes 5df0 hydraulic unit pump motor and 5df1 hydraulic unit pump motor connector faulty.

    Repair shop wants $3500 to replace it, YIKES! And they say they can't replace the pump without buying the module, but the module can be repaired as explained here. But they can't tell me which it is, the pump or the module.

    How can I tell if its the pump or the module? To determine if I can send the module to modulemasters or I have to find a way for fork out $3500 for the whole unity.

    Interestingly, I can get the abs light to turn off for a little while after I go through the car wash. The shop says its not the wheel sensor...

    Any advice and thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

    TY
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  18. #18
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    You can send it to them and they will check it for free, which will confirm if the module is ok or not
    Andreas
    Queens NY
    BMWCCA# 186796
    86 325es (wrecked by careless driver)
    87 325 300k (project for life) aka 1BADETA/Christine
    89 525i 190k Winter/Drift Poutana
    00 540is 6spd 224k (daily driver) Rebuilt at 212k (Chain guide Failure) Record holder!!
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