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    Oil leaking maybe out of Transmission Breather on top of Auto Transmission 2000 528i

    Just received a 2000 528i use to be my sons. Has 116k and transmission was serviced at 113k. About 6 months ago my son was backing the car out of the garage and noticed there was a trail of transmission oil spots on the floor as he backed out. He took it to his local repair shop. The shop could not find anything so then went ahead and serviced the transmission (changed the filter and fluid) seemed okay for about a month. Again the drip problem had happened before they serviced the transmission. Then my son gave me the car. I had it parked in my level driveway. The other day moved the car in the morning and saw some oil spots in the driveway. Looked under car but couldn't really see any signs of heavy leaking? So the other day I moved the car again in the morning and again noticed oil drips, I put a oil pan under car the transmission oil dripped onto the pan about 2" dia. I used a paper towel it looked very very light brown not pink, and smelled more light ATF,but not sure what the fluid looked like that was put in. I took out the engine oil dip stick and put a sample next to the other oil, it looked much much darker and smelled different. I looked around and couldn't notice any one location other than the pan area. So I cleaned all the areas around the pan, sides, front of transmission, shifter area, cooler lines to transmission, and breather. Took it out for a test run and of course did not leak. So I'm wondering if it's a first thing in the morning when the transmission is cold or after it seats for a while??? I wondering if the leak is coming down from the breather on top of the transmission? It did seem wetter at the front of the transmission around the pan area? If it is the breather, why would it do it when it's cold and not hot? Also the car has the typical oil leaks from power steering hoses and Oil Filter Housing but don't seem to be migrating to the transmission area. When it dripped it, I say probably at least two spots 2" inches in dia. So it's pretty good leak. The power steering cables did not show any heavy dripping like that. Any thoughts? Thx
    Last edited by riverjamie2; 04-18-2013 at 08:52 AM.
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    Hi riverjamie,

    I know this going to sound like a dumb question, but first I have to ask: are you absolutely sure it is transmission oil that is leaking? Oil, which I am sure you realize, can travel far down behind the valve cover, onto the top of the tranny, then work its way back down & over it and end up looking like a transmission leak.

    Second question: make sure the leak is not coming from the transmission unit where it attaches to the engine. If you've got a seal degrading there, it can ooze out (especially when the transmission cools down (the aluminum contracts, and thus the seal exposes its degradation). This is a major, major repair on a auto tranny box; I hope it is not this. You'll have to get up in there and clean it off good, and use a handheld mirror so that you know you are getting it clean. It is possible, just have to get the car up in the air so you have room to work.


    Now, if those two things above are settled, and you are sure it is transmission oil coming from the pan area somewhere, then try to rule out the usual suspects:

    ---the transmission pan seal will weep on you if it is not properly put back in place. What I mean is this: suppose the car's old tran pan seal was degrading and leaking. You took it in and the shop replaced the pan. If that seal is not put on correctly, then torqued correctly, and here is the most important two things, those pan bolts have to be torqued to the exact torque spec (it'll feel darn near loose when you do it) because if they aren't, and they are torqued just a smidge too hard, the seal will squish inbetween the pan &n its mount and the oil when leak usually only when the car is clod (again, the aluminum has contracted)...the second thing, those bolts have to be torqued in the correct sequence, otherwise the pan will warp slightly and again, you can see a weeping leak, again especially when the car has been run and then cools down.

    Next, make sure no oil is coming out of the back of the tranny seal area (where it connects with the driveshaft). Something like this (not sure if this is your car, need to specify which exact auto tranny box on there, it's on a plaque, side of tranny box):
    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...33&hg=24&fg=15


    If you are sure it is not any of the above, my next check would be the valve cover body electrical plug that comes out of the back of the tranny box (and the back, top). Here's a pic of mine when I did my tranny:




    On your car, I think this is a schematic of your valve body (again, I'm not sure, since it is not specified what exact transmission is on there):
    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...38&hg=24&fg=15

    Anyhow, on mine, notice that white seal on the electrical plug for the valve body: on my 528i auto ZF 5HP18 tranny box, with about 110,000mi, this seal had degraded and had begun to chip off, letting a just little oil ooze out (but not very much, certianly not what you are describing, but then again, the chip white piece was still in place even though its seal had been broken. For me, though, it was impossible to tell where exactly the tranny oil was coming from, because a tranny box vibrates like crazy and oil moves all over it and then down on the floor, where you look at it, and go: where'd that come from, I cleaned everything and yet there are still no traces. Good news is this repair is cheap and effective. Bad news: the pan has to be dropped again, and (far as I know, from my experience) the whole tranny valve body assembly has to be dropped. I did a whole writeup on this (as I rebuilt the valve bodies) and you can check out the writeup here:

    http://forum.roadfly.com/threads/131...Y-Part-1/page2


    Good luck. As far as your breather hose, I am going to say something so stupid that I am embarrassed: I did not even notice a breather hose and/or valve on my transmission when I did my work. I had just assumed the whole darn tranny box was sealed up tight completely since BMW had been selling that "lifetime never change your tranny oil" thing when they did the e39s. It would be great if yours was a simple breathe valve seal and/or blockage, but I imagine getting at it is going to be a pain. As i said though, I feel embarrassed because I honestly don't even know if I have one, for when I looked up in my tranny box after removing the whole valve body assembly, I didn't notice anything except that electrical connection plug going out of the box. Below is me under the car going "oh sh!t, what have I gotten myself into?!"








    Anyhow, hope something I wrote above helps you.
    Last edited by eurodavid; 04-18-2013 at 03:07 AM.
    EuroDavid
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    Eurodavid thxs for all the info. Car has 116K on it. It was just serviced at 113k. The shop only listed the job as Service Transmission $350. First when it was dripping onto the oil pan, I took a sample on a paper towel. It was very light light brown in color and smelled like trany fluid, but it was not pink? I'm not sure what type of fluid was put it the trany. So I took out the engine oil dip stick and put some on the same paper towel, first it was much much darker in color and did not smell the same. So I'm assuming it's trany oil. The car runs good no weird noises while shifting and no slipping. The breather is located on top of the transmission above the area where the cooler lines come into the trans. I'm hoping that after cleaning all around the pan, cooler lines(which were clean already), and breather, that when it comes back again i'll be able to nail it down? I was thinking the same thing about the pan gasket if it wasn't tightened properly? What about this seal from engine to trany? I thought all the transmission fluid only stays in the transmission and cooler lines? Where is it located? Also there's what seems to be a big rectangluar open hole in the bell housing area? Is this normal or should there be a cover plate? On top of this problem the car has the typical oil leaks from power steering hoses and the Oil Filter Housing. But doesn't seem to be migrating all the way back. Please tell me what you think after reading this. Also nice photos and feedback.
    Last edited by riverjamie2; 04-18-2013 at 08:24 AM.
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    David forgot to ask you about the tightening sequence and torque settings for the pan? Do you have them?
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    RiverJamie,

    Before we can do anything, what auto tranny box do you have in your 528i? Looking at a site like RealOEM will do no good, as BMW used both ZF and GM trannies in the 528 automatics and thus they list both. The only way to know for sure which tranny you have is to get under the car, and write down all the info on the transmission stamped plaque----it'll be dirty, but very readable, unfortunately (at least on mine) you need a mirror to read it, as usually it is on the top back left side of the tranny, and then perform the mental gymnastics to write it down correctly,. If you've got a GM transmission, we're sort of dealing with different things as compared to the ZF transmission. I'm partial to ZF, as they are easy to service and have proved, at least over here in Europe from what I have seen, to be battle-tough transmissions. Not so for the stateside GM trannies, from what I understand.
    EuroDavid
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    5 speed auto steptronic was used starting Oct 1999 production, for month of Sept.1999 older tranny was used not steptronic.
    2000 528 5sp Premium Package. Titanium silver,grey leather, heated seats,folding seats, 6cd player, bone stock except ash tray mod. Garmin GPS
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    David, I just went under car, had been sitting over night, no signs of oil leak. Going to start it up again and see what happens when it's cold. Also the car in sitting on drive up ramps under front tires. Not sure if this will effect anything. Here's the trany info from the Green metal label on trany.
    GM 1-423-875 VO,
    96022832
    P08-0114909

    Thanks
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    Just took the car out for a 30 minute ride, came back no leaks. So right now it's on the drive up ramps. If no leaks in morning I'll put it back on level ground, and see what happens. Also took a hard look at the electrical connector at the rear of the transmission, on signs of leaking, I cleaned away old dirt and debri.
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    Riverjamie,

    Glad to hear after cleaning it up you've seen no leaks. The more I think about, do you think it is possible that any of the power steering oil (BMW specs the same oil for that as they do the tranny) managed to run down its hose, hit the transmission alu-cased oiler cooler lines, and then over time enough of this fluid ran back those lines to make it appear the tranny itself had a leak? To tell you the truth, I've seen this happen on one friend's 528i 3 year's ago that I was working on....that p/s oil ran straight back one transmission coolant line, and it for all intents & purposes look like the transmission was leaking there. And, right now, I've got another friend owns a 1999 528i Touring where I am scheduled to fix it in the next few weeks and it is for the exact same thing-----except that his p/s leak is now getting all over everything, despite his constant wiping down. Don't know why I forgot to mention these to you as a possible faux transmission leak on our e39s.

    Anyway, remember that a good 2 1/2 feet of the those transmission cooler lines are hard, slick aluminum (where they come back and plug into the tranny, the front of them is where the bendable hose is to mate with the cooler tucked in behind the radiator) and they run nearly right under the power steering setup.


    Also, for future reference, the way to torque the transmission oil pan is a bit peculiar. Everyone thinks (read: garages and/or people who don't read the BMW specs & use a TIS) to put on the pan and start putting the pan's bolts (with their little brackets) on in a "star fashion", getting the pan all nice and level. Nope, don't do it, it is a sure way to possibly have future transmission pan seal leaks develop. The correct way, to put that aluminum tranny pan, is to do this:

    1) make sure both mating surfaces are clean (this is obvious).

    2) Put the seal on and lift the tranny pan up into place.

    3) You can start at either end, but the key is start at one end only and work your way down the pan. So, working from an end, thread the furthest two pan bolts into the very end, and torque them to 6 NM (or 4.43 ft lbs). You'll no a torque wrench that can handle low settings like this, preferably a 1/4" torque wrench (Harbor Freight sells nice ones for about $12). Don't use a 3/8" or 1/2" torque wrench, as their low settings are useless. The thing that will shock you is that Nm is not very much, you'll think to yourself "dam#, that is not very tight at all, it is almost loose" and you'll want to torque it just a bit more. Resist that urge.

    4) Working from the end of the tranny you started, now go down the pan sequentially and torque the pan bolts as you go along. DO NOT put any pan bolts on where you skip a hole along the way. You go down the pan as you put it on, torquing along the way.


    I know this seems overkill, but it is the safest way to put on the pan and reduce the likelihood of any future pan leaks to near zero.


    Also, if you need to know the torque specs for the transmission drain plug and it's fill plug, here they are:
    drain plug----15-16 NM (11.1 - 12 ft lbs)
    fill plug--------100 Nm (73.8 ft lbs) , yes, you are reading that right, the massive fill plug is to be tightened this much, for which you'll need a 1/2" torque wrench (again, Harbor Freight to the rescue, they sell nice one for around $15-$20).


    Hope this helps.




    P.S. Try to clean everything off the p/s unit and all its hoses, especially the hose coming from the reservoir down to the pump. It is very possible that, over time, the p/s oil weeped back along one of the alu cooler lines and made it look like the tranny was leaking somewhere.
    EuroDavid
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    David, thanks again for all the feedback. I really don't think it's coming from the PS hoses. After cleaning them it seems that your correct on the PS reservoir hoses they are leaking. So will have to replace them. But I didn't see any signs of that much oil getting all the way back but I could be wrong. The OFH gasket must be leaking too because I see oil to the right of it if you look at it from the drivers side of the car. Also there's a small oil line coming from the back of the OFH that also appears to be leaking it looks like it goes up to the top front of the engine? It has banjo bolts with washers. SHOULD I replace this hose and washers when I do the OFH gasket? If so do I just hand tighten and a little more to crush seal ring? Is it known for leaking like PS hoses?

    I really think that it's possible the mechanic that did the pan didn't know about the correct sequence of tightening the pan bolts. I hope none of them are stripped? If for some reason some are stripped do they make a heilcoil or larger bolt? But as I said before the problem was there before he serviced the transmission.

    Is the fill hole that small allen bolt near the front of the transmission on the side? Getting back to something that you said early on, I look very hard with a mirror and flashlight at the electrical plug at the rear, I really could see any signs of leakage like I was seeing. Also I can get the light torque wrench from a local Autozone for free with a credit card then return and they issue a refund (they have them as tool loans).

    Now you have probably read I did find that the temperature coolant sensor, the one on top of the lower hose next to the radiator is leaking. I looks to be, I hope caused by the small "O" ring that's on the sensor? It is dripping, so going to try and pick one up today. Have you ever replaced just the O ring? If so do you think I can as one other poster replied to me that as long as I just remove the senor not much coolant will come out? I think it's worth a shot. In any case will put a bucket under the area and have a rag ready to plug hole. I hope the housing is not cracked? The leak is pretty small so don't think its getting all the way back.

    I really hope that maybe it's from the PS hose and not the trany. But who knows maybe it's the pan.

    Again thanks for answering all my questions and for all your help
    Last edited by riverjamie2; 04-19-2013 at 08:54 AM.
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    Riverjamie,

    First, do as Jimlev suggests on the coolant temp sensor (he's one of our gurus here, has taught me mucho stuff over the years). I've been lucky and never had to replace it and/or the gasket, but I've replaced nearly everything else on the cooling system. These car's demand constant attention where the cooling system is concerned, unfortunately.

    As far as the oil filter housing, below are some pics of mine. Mine was leaking and it wasn't the gasket (but it always appeared to be the gasket). it was those two dang holes in it that BMW plugged up (look at the pics). Leaking from here always made it look like the gasket was bad, and it wasn't. Also included a pic of what I did to stop the leak: (see that two shiney plugs in the first pick, the notice what I did to them in the 2nd pic):


    Believe it or not, the JB Weld has held now for over 30k kms (knock on wood), as there was no way I was buying a new upgraded Oil Filter Housing, which is what BMW wants you to do to fix this known problem in their I6 oil filter housings.


    Now, addressing the drain and fill hole on your auto tranny box. Did you notice the the either green or black or biege brown plastic cover on the bottom of the pan. It is about the size of a Smucker's Jam jar lid. Pry that off, and you will see a bug hex nut bolt up in the pan (it's size is like 17 or 19mm, can't remember offhand---that is your fill hole, you are going to have to have a hand pump (again, search the Roadfly archive using Google, I've posted lots of pics how to do this, simply and cheaply, with little mess). Here's a pic of what I used frequently when doing tranny work:


    or I have used this successfully too:



    Note: the small hex nut bolt plug you are referring to in your post is the drain plug, not the fill plug. Follow the torque specs I listed in my other post. Plus, there are specs you have to follow when filling the tranny (actual steps have to be preformed, again, use Google to research about this as I and many others have written about it). Here's a pic of my tranny pan, looking from the back of the car towards the front. Notice the plastic green cover, it pops off with a screw driver to reveal the fill hole on the pan. In the distance of the pick, you can see the small fill hole.



    Next, as far as your tranny leak source, it sounds like you are going to have to exhaust all the possibilities. Try to be sure no tranny fluid is coming out right where the oil cooler lines enter into the transmission. Each oil cooler line has a small gasket on it, and it is possible one of those has degrade and/or just plain failed. Here's a pic of my oil cooler lines plus the actual oil cooler unit when I serviced them on my car (the oil cooler unit actually developed a pin leak and started to leak consistently, thus I had to replace it). In this pic, note the long aluminum part of the oil cooler lines, even though you can see it, each end of those has little round gaskets on them that seal into the transmission housing, preventing any weeping leaks.




    Lastly, as far as the mechanic who previously did the work on the transmission and that he might have possibly stripped the threads, try not to think that until you actually check them. Hopefully he didn't use any arm strength at all to crank them down, because if he did, he surely would have seen the gasket being crushed as it would have been visibly distorted as he did this. Check them first, you can safely screw one out and nothing will happen if the car is sitting and off. Check them all this way. Take one out, put it back in, and keep going.

    Riverjamie, you are the point where you are going to have to start working on the car to source some of these problems better. We on Roadfly here can arm chair quarterback and speculate like crazy, but until items are specifically serviced and ruled out as a source of leak, everything we do will be pure conjecture. So, good luck, and let us know what you find as you begin to dig into it!
    Last edited by eurodavid; 04-19-2013 at 02:28 PM.
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    David I can't thank you enough for all the tips and graphics. Again this morning no ATF leaks. Still have the temperature coolant sensor leak, slight but over time it could build up. So I went ahead and used some engine cleaner around the OFH to clean it, the oil line, and area around it. Thanks for the tip on using JB Weld. I'll check mine and see if it's leaking and seal up the plugs. Going to order up the parts for the PS hoses and OFH. When you install the new hoses on the reservoir do you use the factory Oetiker crimping clamps or regular hose clamps?

    My transmission does not have a cap on the pan. Probably missing but there is a larger hex bolt. On the side of the transmission there's another the same size so I take it that's the drain?
    [h=5][/h]
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    I've got to find a picture of those GM trannies. Everything I see (on the e39 at least) over here in Europe is usually ZF. One of those holes on the pan has to be bigger (and higher) for filling purposes than the other one. If the one on the side is smaller, lower and more toward the front of the sloping pan, then I'd assume (like you) that is going to be your drain hole. Geez, I hope GM left you room to work on there if the fill hole is going to be on the side. That could be a pain in the butt to fill unless you have a sturdy J-bend aluminum bend on the end of your hand pump, one like this: (yes, lol, I have this one too, but it's a beast to use):



    As far as hose clamps, you can truly use any kind (I have a mixture of both, the German spec'd ones and the regular hose clamps). Only thing you need to make sure is that they are the clamps that are completely smooth on the inside, so they don't cut into the hoses when you crank them down (on the p/s hoses at the unit and down at the pump, you'll want to really make sure the clamps are good & tight).

    As for the OFH, I am hoping that yours doesn't leak enough to require you to remove it (it is honestly a time consuming pain, no hard, just time consuming in stuff you have to remove from the engine to get at it properly). If it is just weeping a little, and you are not an#l-retentive when it comes to this stuff like my OCD-complex is, just wipe it up every now & then, and it will be fine. It's good that engine oil isn't as corrosive as transmission oil, so a little relaxing here on the leak is ok.


    Best of luck!!
    EuroDavid
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    David, ordered all the hoses and etc. Next I put the car up on the ramps I'll try to remember to take a few pictures of the trany for you. Now that I've cleaned off engine around the OFH. I didn't see any feedback regarding the oil line that comes off the back of the OFH with the Banjo bolts with crush washers. Can you tell me what is the proper way to tighten the banjo bolts? In the past on different cars etc I've always just tightened until snug then a little more. Or is there a better way? I know what you mean about the removal of the OFH, I watched a good video on it that someone put up, it's a bit of a pain. I'm going to watch that oil line hose and see if it starts leaking or if it's just needs a little tightening?

    011.jpg


    This trany leak is very puzzling. I really think that it was ATF, and can't see any real signs that it migrated all the way from the front of the car? The cooler lines looked clean except for a little sweating at the trany (very little). But who knows?

    David just edited this post because I just watched a You Tube video on changing transmission fluid on a trany like mine. This link is for Part 2, Part 1 is just the prelim stuff for changing it, I sent you this link because the person in the video says that per the Bentley Manual the pan bolts should be tightened to 15lb which is different than the 4.3lb you suggested. If it's not to much trouble could you pls verify for a GM trany? Also the this trany looks just like mine including the green sticker on bottom of the pan.

    Here's the link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOQ3Bp-RDBY

    I'd like to have this car last my wife and I at least 4 more years if possible.

    Thanks again.
    Last edited by riverjamie2; 04-20-2013 at 10:44 AM.
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    Riverjamie,

    As far as that banjo bolt on that oil line, it is part of your vanos (you have a double vanos, I believe, as opposed to my single vanos). Here's a pic of my engine head as I get ready to take the vanos off, notice it is only a single vanos (vairable timing) on the intake cam side):


    Anyhow, if you think the washer seals (2 at each end) have failed either end at this vanos oil line (that means there's two banjo bolts, one on the vanos, the other on the OFH), and that is the source of your leak, then you can actually get at them both, especially the one on back of the OFH (it is a contort fit, but if you have a swivel socket extension 4" to 6", you can do it, and also with a miniture swivel wrench with ratcheting built in). I did this, only removing my air intake box (I did) and diving in behind and slightly above the alt. As far as tightening both ends of that line and its banjo bolts, BMW has a torque spec for both ends of the banjo bolts, which if i recall correctly, was around 32Nm (basically what you did before with your older cars, which is the setting for snugging stuff up tightly without cranking it so hard as to deform the washers).

    Now, as far as the tranny pan, I dug up some info I had, and here is the Tightening Torques for the Oil Filler & Drain Plugs on the e39 I6 (all dependent upon which tranny you have:

    ZF Transmissions:
    A5S 310Z 100NM oil filler, 15Nm oil drain
    A5S 560Z 100Nm oil filler, 50Nm oil drain
    A5S 440Z 35Nm oil filler, 30Nm oil drain
    A5S 325Z 30Nm oil filler, 35Nm oil drain

    GM Transmissions:
    A4S 270R 25Nm Oil filler, 33Nm oil drain
    A4S 310R 25Nm oil filler, 33Nm oil drain
    A5S 360R 20Nm oil filler, 20Nm oil drain
    A5S 390R 20Nm oil filler, 20Nm oil drain



    Now, as far as the pan bolts, I don't know what to tell you. I know the troque specs I gave you are for my ZF tranny pan, so maybe the GM trannies have a higher torque spec for their pan bolts. And maybe that is reflected correctly in the Bentley manual. Plus, you said the video shows the same tranny as yours, so maybe I'd trust that & go with what he did (besides, you will notice right away if you are deforming that pan gasket as you tighten the pan up). But an argument against this is I did look in the BMW TIS for tightening pan bolt torques for a 2000 and 2001 528i model, and I could not find anything (assuming I was looking in the correct category) that differed from what I gave you in terms of pan tightening torque. So, it'll be up to you to decide here. On mine, a 4lb torque setting gave a nice, snug fit that left the gasket fully sealed against both sides but yet not deformed (so that when the pan heats up and expands, which it will do, the seal becomes even tighter).

    Best of luck RiverJamie, let us know how stuff works out.
    Last edited by eurodavid; 04-20-2013 at 03:06 PM.
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    Thanks David, I'll try to see if I can look at a Bentley manual or maybe talk to dealer for clarification on the pan bolts. That's the problem when you get two different spec's. FYI today still no leaks at the trany area.
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    David, FYI just received all the PS hoses and Coolant temp sensor, so hope to install first of next week. Still no oil leaks at trany area? Who knows maybe it was migrating? I hope so. I'll keep you posted.
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    Euro David, well guess what, today went out to install new PS hose and the trany oil leak started again. Dripping, put up on ramps, went under and found that the leak was coming from the BREATHER ON TOP OF TRANY. So any thoughts? If not, do you know someone that might have an idea? It's a GM 1-423-875 VO. Going to contact tomorrow Monday, a Trany guy that has done services on my other cars. Well at least I finally saw it. I'm not sure how the Breather works?? I'm wondering if it has a release system after it reaches a certain pressure. It just looks like a little tube sticking up with a floating metal cap on it. Maybe the cap is not suppose to be loose like it is?? I also wonder it's possible to just cap the breather? Well that's where I'm at, at this time.
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    Riverjamie,

    So it is definitely a breather tube?? and not the either one of the two transmission cooler lines' little gasket seals at their end, where they come into the tranny?? Hmmm, I've got to admit, that's a complete new one one me. I only see ZF trannys over here, and I can't ever recall any one of us (of the group that I know who drives e39s) ever talking about a leak from a "breather tube".

    I guess what I don't understand, is that when you talk about a ZF tranny, and you try to overfill it, it will literally gurgle oil back out the fill hole before you can get it shut quickly enough. Sure, I did manage to overfill it once, but only by driving the back of the car up on ramps, lol, just to see what would happen with an extra liter of oil in the tranny. Soon as I ran the car, I'll be damned if the thing didn't just spit the oil back out the fill hole seal soon as I loosened it. Couldn't believe it. Soon as I took about a liter it, it stopped doing that and never saw a leak on any time I have been in there since. Other than that, i honestly don't know what to tell you about the GM tranny and a breather tube. I guess you could try to cap it (high strength adhesive gasket, the black one, maybe?) but then if this transmission oil leak is being caused by pressure, wouldn't any sort of cap just slowly erode?

    What is puzzling the heck out of me is that if enough pressure is building up inside the actual transmission pan, enough to spurt some oil out of a breather tube, then why is that pressure building up in the first place? Something doesn't sound right. Yes, all auto trannies do work under pressure, but it is never enough to breach anything that I know of (if it is anywhere near in reasonable working order and/or lifespan), especially on top of a pan. And besides, the pressure occurs "inside" the valve bodies, not outside of them ( the oil flows around the valve bodies in the tranny pan).

    I just don't know what to tell you. Hopefully, the someone you find will have experience with this particular GM transmission and can give you some hints what is going on. If and when you do find out, please post back here because I am truly curious what is happening with your transmission and this leak.
    Last edited by eurodavid; 04-28-2013 at 03:05 PM.
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    David thanks for replying again. So it seems that it's possibly a first thing in the morning cold? Also seems so far that it does it in only reverse??? But I can be sure of that? When I think about how it does it, the car always has to be backed out of driveway or even if I'm going to just back it up a little (like this morning 4 ft) then drive it up my ramps to work under car.

    Do the ZF tranys have a breather on top? I couldn't find it listed on Realoem.com for GM?

    Just finished installing the PS reservoir hoses, not to messy, took my time. Also cleaned out the reservoir with gas, because I forgot to order one. Going to install after lunch coolant temp sensor.

    David just found this link: it shows my type of transmission. You can see the breather on top of the trans toward the front.
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/neil113...3379/lightbox/


    I'll keep you posted
    Last edited by riverjamie2; 04-28-2013 at 06:01 PM.
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