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  1. #1
    Alan D
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    2 Q's, Tranny oil and car insurance

    Two more new guy questions. I have a a stock 76 with 175K and no significant engine/tranny work. What kind of oil should be in the transmission? I can't tell from the previous owners records what is in there. I read something about using SAE30w. Being a new owner of an old car, I find my insurance company can only provide liability unless I want "show car" coverage where my car is basically under police surveillance when it isn't at a car show. What do you all recommend to cover comprehensive type issues?


  2. #2
    JakeS
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    A: Tranny oil should be SAE 80 or 90 nonhypoid

    The nonhypoid may be important. Hypoid has additives that may degrade the old bronze synchros.

    Thats a problem when getting oil from Pep Boys, hypoid is all they have.

    The reference to 30 wt engine oil is a recognition that gearbox oil viscosity ratings are a different scale than engine oil viscosity ratings. I think 90 wt gearbox oil is close to 30 wt engine oil. I could be wrong, but I beleive that ff you must use engine oil you should use non-detergent oil.


  3. #3
    Marty
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    Re: A: Tranny oil should be SAE 80 or 90 nonhypoid

    Right on Dave non detergent oil or non hypoid 90 wt or redline synthetic 80-90wt the non hypoid oil can sometimes be found in kowasaki shops.

  4. #4
    Erik
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    Re: 2 Q's, Tranny oil and car insurance


    Two more new guy questions. I have a a stock 76 with 175K and no significant engine/tranny work. What kind of oil should be in the transmission? I can't tell from the previous owners records what is in there. I read something about using SAE30w. Being a new owner of an old car, I find my insurance company can only provide liability unless I want "show car" coverage where my car is basically under police surveillance when it isn't at a car show. What do you all recommend to cover comprehensive type issues?

    I think it depends on the company. I just purchased a 71' 02 and have coverage through Allstate which includes comprehensive, collision, and uninsured/underinsured. My agent asked me the value of the car, I gave her a figure, that was it. $600 year. I'm in SoCal, 35, have 1 ticket, and live in a pretty safe part of town so those factors may play a part in the cost. Shop around. You might want to check last week's posts regarding insurance as someone said they had coverage from some place that covers only "classic" type cars and his cost was like $92 a year full coverage or some such insanity.


  5. #5
    Ben '74 tii
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    Insurance

    I pay just over $500.- a year for my car. Barely half of that is collision and comprehensive ($250.- deductable, zero on glass), the rest is basic liability. I'm 26 and single and live in a sketchy neighborhood in L.A., and I've got a motorcycle and LOTS of tickets. I told my insurance agent that the car's worth $4,000.- and that I don't use it to commute (both true). Everybody else I know is paying $150+ per MONTH on old Mustangs or new Civics. I'm pleased.

    Ben
    '74 tii
    '98 CBR F3 ($102.- per year for basic liability, $1,600 more for collision/comprehensive)


  6. #6
    greg
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    Re: A: Tranny oil should be SAE 80 or 90 nonhypoid


    The nonhypoid may be important. Hypoid has additives that may degrade the old bronze synchros.

    Thats a problem when getting oil from Pep Boys, hypoid is all they have.

    The reference to 30 wt engine oil is a recognition that gearbox oil viscosity ratings are a different scale than engine oil viscosity ratings. I think 90 wt gearbox oil is close to 30 wt engine oil. I could be wrong, but I beleive that ff you must use engine oil you should use non-detergent oil.


    What about differential guys? I do not want to put redline in my diff because it leaks a good bit and redline leaks worse than reg. fluids.

    Can you recommend a non-redline rear lube?


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