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  1. #21
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    Absolutely incredible post! Thank you.



  2. #22
    dennisa in Dallas
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    May I call you? I live in Dallas.

    Would you contact me? I would love to talk to you about your wonderful installation.
    I live near Coit and Campbell. Please E-mail me off the board at: [email protected]
    Thanks in advance,
    Dennis Alexander

  3. #23
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    the drums at the beguining was great for test :-)


    yeah, picking these songs was not my finest moment, but they allowed me to test the system :-)


    William
    Richardson, Texas
    2002 Alpine White/Black Leather/SMG

  4. #24
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    Mike, it is all relative ...


    I guess it all depends what you consider good enough. My upgraded system will beat the stock H&K hands down but I am not about to enter any contests - that was not my goal. Music now sounds the way it should and the bass is plenty.

    Everyone who has heard the system in the last two weeks comments that the sound is awesome, but I am sure that with more money and even better equipment it could sound even better. I certainly got what I wanted and then some.

    If you are ever in the Dallas area let me know so that you can try it - bring your favorite CD :-)


    William
    Richardson, Texas
    2002 Alpine White/Black Leather/SMG

  5. #25
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    William.....speechless.....thanks so much....




    CorpusChristi,TX

  6. #26
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    Great detail! Thanks for sharing.


    jjr
    '03 StG/Blk
    Houston, Tx.

  7. #27
    marauder
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    Very nice; looks like my install (sorta)

    I think you had the same sort of requirements that I did: relatively low cost, super stealth, and do it yourself! I did a similar install on my M Coupe and the results are available here:

    http://bimmer.roadfly.org/bmw/forums/z3-coupe/forum.php?postid=727479

    My install seems like it was easier than yours, in a way, as I didn't have to pull apart the doors. Because I relocated the tweeters, I had to run new wiring for the tweeters, but I do agree about the regular speaker wiring being adequate.

    Nice job.


    2001 M Coupe

  8. #28
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    No problem :-)


    Let me know this week - maybe we can meet for lunch :-)


    William
    Richardson, Texas
    2002 Alpine White/Black Leather/SMG

  9. #29
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    if u just replace the factory amp to power the

    stock speakers will that make a big difference?
    2002 M3 Cab
    AW/IR
    UUC Short Shifter
    UUC Transmission Mounts & Enforcers
    SSR GT-3 rims 19"
    ACS Front strut brace
    Hamann Pedals
    SSR GT3 Rims

  10. #30
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    Could you elaborate on the simpler upgrade...

    involving the sub amp to power only the subwoofers? What aftermarket amp/subwoofer combination would you recommend for this? (I note your comment that the Kickers you used are discontinued)
    Thanks!

  11. #31
    dennisa
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    William-E-mail me your ph# & I'll call. DennisA.


  12. #32
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    Send me email.


    William
    Richardson, Texas
    2002 Alpine White/Black Leather/SMG

  13. #33
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    Amazing Job! I have some questions ......

    Are you no longer running the OEM amp? Is it safe to assume that it is not necessary to have it attached to the headunit?

    I am very impressed with your work! You have done a very clean and professional job with the entire install.

  14. #34
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    correct - no longer using OEM amp (...)


    You do NOT need to run the OEM amp to preserve the head unit, however, the speed sensitive adjustment and the spatial setting are now gone.

    William


    William
    Richardson, Texas
    2002 Alpine White/Black Leather/SMG

  15. #35
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    Possibly, but not easy at all (more)


    The folks who designed the H&K system designed them in conjunction with the H&K speakers, so without all of the fine-tuning that was built-in into the H&K amp, you will have an almost impossible job of figuring out what are the propper levels and frequency ranges for each of the speakers.

    In addition, as you can see from some of my pictures, the OEM skeapers can't handle much more power (woofer was like 21 Watts, compared to 100 Watts for my a/d/s replacement), so you have to be careful not to over-drive the OEM speakers as well.

    The folks that I exchanged email with all told me not to try as it was not worth it, but you can prove them wrong and give it a try - just be patient as it will take a LOT of time to arrive at the right settings by trial and error.

    Whatever you do, good luck :-)


    William
    Richardson, Texas
    2002 Alpine White/Black Leather/SMG

  16. #36
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    Your install looks great - good job dude!


    William
    Richardson, Texas
    2002 Alpine White/Black Leather/SMG

  17. #37
    marauder
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    I do not recommend swapping just the amp

    The problem is that you can't just replace the amp. It's an active crossover network, so if you eliminate the amp, you have to replace the crossovers with something. Buying crossovers can range from $50-$100 each, but as William stated, the HK speakers are designed with the HK amp and crossovers in mind, so getting the right crossovers might be a difficult task. IMHO, it's easier and, in the long run, cheaper if you replace the amp with the crossovers and speakers all at the same time rather than trying to do it piece-meal.


    2001 M Coupe

  18. #38
    Holli82
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    Re: DIY post - Full H&K Audio Upgrade (long!)

    Excellent post. Do you have any trouble with engine whine with the ADS amp?

  19. #39
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    Nothing at all with the VEN4.


    William
    Richardson, Texas
    2002 Alpine White/Black Leather/SMG

  20. #40
    lkptpete
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    front door kids and tweeters

    In this post you list separate wires for the front door mids and front door tweeters. But looking at photos, it looks like there is only on pair of wires feeding the mid/tweeter combo in each door... which is it?


    Quote Originally Posted by bmwm3coupe View Post
    E46 M3 Coupe (with H&K, no NAV) Full Audio Upgrade
    By William Quiles ([email protected])
    12/01/02




    The harness connector pin numbers are embossed on the plastic. There are two “halves” to the connector, looking at the female harness connector its pin lay out looks like this:

    Grey ˝ of connector
    Pin # 13 / Tweeter Rear Right door + * Yellow Pin # 21 / Tweeter Rear Right door - *Blue / yellow
    Pin # 12 / Tweeter Front Right - Blue / Brown Pin #20 / no connection
    Pin # 11 / Tweeter Front Right + Blue / black Pin #19 / no connection
    Pin # 10 / Switched +12v remote turn on White Pin #18 / no connection
    Pin # 9 / Head unit output Front Right + Blue / red Pin #17 / Head unit output Front Right - Brown / orange
    Pin # 8 / Head unit output Rear Right + Blue / black Pin #16 / Head unit output Rear Right - Brown / orange
    Pin # 7 / no connection Pin #15 / no connection
    Pin # 6 / no connection Pin #14 / no connection
    Pin # 5 / +12v factory amp +12v supply *Red / green
    Pin # 4 / Woofer Front Left +Blue / white
    Pin # 3 / Woofer Front Left -Blue / brown
    Pin # 2 / Woofer Rear Left +Yellow
    Pin # 1 / Woofer Rear Left -Brown

    Black ˝ of connector
    Pin # 34 / Tweeter Front Left - Yellow / brown Pin # 42 / Mid Front Right door + *Green
    Pin # 33 / Tweeter Front Left + Yellow / red Pin #41 / Mid Front Right door - *Blue / green
    Pin # 32 / Tweeter Rear left door - * Yellow / brown Pin #40 / Mid Front left door + *White
    Pin # 31 / Tweeter Rear Left door + * Yellow / black Pin #39 / Mid Front left door - *Blue / white
    Pin # 30 / Head output Front left - Brown / orange Pin #38 / Head output Front Left + Yellow / red
    Pin # 29 / Head output Rear Left - Brown / orange Pin #37 / Head output Rear Left + Yellow / black
    Pin # 28 / no connection Pin #36 / no connection
    Pin # 27 / no connection Pin #35 / no connection
    Pin # 26 / DC ground factory ampBrown
    Pin # 25 / Woofer Rear Right +Blue
    Pin # 24 / Woofer Rear Right -Brown
    Pin # 23 / Woofer Front Right +Blue / Red
    Pin # 22 / Woofer Front Right -Blue / Brown

    Pins 1-5 and 22-26 are heavier connections that then other pins, these are the ones that feed the woofers and provide power to the factory amp. I did not use the power connections for the factory amp for the ADS amp – the ADS can draw 30A and the factory connector had wire much to small for that type of current draw. Instead I powered the ADS amp directly (with safety fuses etc) from the battery (easy since BMW puts the battery in the trunk).



    William
    Richardson, Texas
    2002 Alpine White/Black Leather/SMG
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