why will starter not engage?

[josh733ibmw83]

i have an 83 733i, and my starter wont engage, it is the original starter, when i turn the ignition all it does is make a rapid clicking noise, if u push the brake in no noise is made at all. i put the charger on the battery in case it had been run down, but the green light came on and the needle went to full. It hasnt been right for a while, before it would just turn the starter and not the engine until u try it again until it engages with the engine. so is it a bad starter? or is there a relay somewhere that may have gone bad?

[AdamLowry]

"bye bye". The solenoid is responsible for energizing the starter, and kicking the starter gear out into the flywheel to spin it for starting. Might look for a new starter for replacement as the solenoid comes attached. Unless you're "really" on a budget, then check bone yards for old starters to salvage an old solenoid off of. It's a two-wire, two screw connection, although those attachment screws can be a little tough to remove, it might get you by for a while. You'll have to get the starter out completely before you can see if the starter gear support bearing is wasted. Best bet, replace the whole unit. : )

Just thoughts, GB, A.

PS Clean the wiring real good when you have everything disconnected. It'll prove to your advantage in the future.



<br><img src="http://perso.wanadoo.fr/claude.lecoq/BMW/logos/bmw728i.gif"

[KCroncarter]

Here is a diagram for automatic starting.

<a href="http://members.roadfly.com/kcroncarter/etm116.htm">http://members.roadfly.com/kcroncarter/etm116.htm</a>
<img src="http://members.roadfly.com/kcroncarter/bmwetm116.jpg">
<br><img src="http://members.roadfly.com/kcroncarter/nobs.JPG" height=141 width=303>

[KCroncarter]

<br><img src="http://members.roadfly.com/kcroncarter/nobs.JPG" height=141 width=303>

[KCroncarter]

Just use Battery positive to pin 11
or pin 12 to pin 11.

This also works for adjusting valves on an automatic.

<img src="http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/reset1.gif">
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/reset1.gif


1. Ground
4. Temperature sensor
7. Reset
8. TDC sensor yellow
9. TDC sensor shield
10.TDC sensor black
11.Start signal
12.Alternator charging excitation voltage
13.Ignition coil
14.Alternator charging supply current
15.Oxygen sensor output to test with.

Later,
<br><img src="http://members.roadfly.com/kcroncarter/nobs.JPG" height=141 width=303>

[danw2002]

Is to clean the connection. What is going on is the connection corrodes and will pass voltage, but not amps. So if you test it with a volt meter, you will show proper voltage, but when you engage the starter, the bad connection will not allow amps to flow and the voltage will drop and the starter will not engage, just click. That is why sometimes people could ‘bang’ on the starter and get it to work. It would move the connections and allow amps to pass, just like pulling and twisting the battery connection to get it to work. Sooo pull and clean all connections in the starter path before you change out the starter. Many times people will just change the starter out, thinking it is bad and in doing so, clean the connections and that is what really solved the problem, but they still think it was a bad starter. Been dealing with car electrics for over 20 years, so sign me ‘been there, done that’ <br>Dan A. Williams(aka danw2002ti/m20)
'70 2002ti/m20 baby six
many many mods,85 745i, '86 735i for sale,
67 2000 4door, 57 isetta,
a true BMW nut ball.............

[dnliii]

Once again you are putting out mis-information. The schematic you have posted has nothing to do with an e23. K5 and K7 relays for the 7 series are for the heater and rear window defogger - not for
" unloader " relays. There are plenty of us who still remember your posts about setting valve clearances to .010, the horrible way that you treated Afshin, and the reason that you are no longer welcome on the forced induction board.
As they say - don't go away mad, just go away...

[jim in sd]

[josh733ibmw83]

ok, i cleaned the contacts with a sharp edge, put it all back together, nothing changed, even bypassed the relay by running a wire directly to the battery, still no difference. any advice on starter replacement (how do i get the damn thing out?)

[dnliii]

<img src="http://imagedeposit.com/Ad_images/Imagedeposit_dot_com_Big_ID_5491__12-50.2.JPG">

[Afshin-Switzerland]

<br>
Regards, Afshin.
1982 745i (5-Speed)

<img src="http://www.roadfly.org/bmw/gallery/thumbs/thumbs-07-2002/9540.gif" height=90 width=118>

[RickBook]

Hey Guys,

I performed a couple of searches first to see if there was an answer for my question.

This thread seemed to be headed in the right direction then got off-track (sounds like someone needed to be roughed up a bit).

Anyway, I'm having starter problems on my '85 735i Auto. I've changed out the cables, cleaned the posts, etc. all to no avail.

I began taking the starter off and then hit a brick-wall on the starter bolt closest to the intake.

I have NO idea how to get to this bolt. I can't access it from the front as the starter will not allow enough space for a socket.

I can't access it from the top (between the spaces in the intake).

The only place left is the top. I tried everyone of my 17mm (I belive is the size) to try to reach that *&^%ing bolt, and can't access it.

Is their a 'special' wrench used to access this bolt?

Have you accessed it before? How? With what type wrench (offset, open-end, box-end, etc)?

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!

Thanks in advance,

Rick
p.s. Ron Carter - do not reply to this post ;)
<br>1985 735i

[Unregistered]

Is your answer to removing to too bolt , It is indeed a 17mm don't have to remove intake as most will

[eeko]

Hello,
And greetings from Finland. I have 1983 e23 and I have changed starter to new one. But there is some problem with the relay. Can someone tell me where it is? ETK says it is under dashboard left side, but there is nothing. I think it is probably blue one.
Br, Eero