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  1. #1
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    0w-20 or 0w-30, or 0w-40???

    Ok I am completly confused on which oil to use. A 0w-20, 0w-30 or 0w-40. I am thinking of the 0w-40 because it would be the same as the 0w-20 as far as cold go but would do better in the heat..right? Basically I don't understand why there is a reason to use a 0w-20 if you can use a 0w-40. I know I want to use a 0w-## because my impression is that the lower the better because of starting, and i dont do a lot of hard driving. But is there any reason to choose a 0w-20 over a 0w-40? thanks for the help!


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    Isn't there a chart in the manual?

    I'm away from home for a while but I seem to remember a chart in the owner's manual calling out exactly which weight of oil to use vs. temperature.

    Tom M.

    "All of us get lost in the darkness
    Dreamers learn to steer by the stars
    All of us do time in the gutter
    Dreamers turn to look at the cars" - N. Peart

  3. #3
    Fred Zbar
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    The Oil with the widest range of viscosity is

    the one to choose. It's good for easier starting at cold or very cold temps & protects in very hot environments. I use a Castrol 5W 50 & live in Maryland. Synthetics are the way to go, of course.

    Fred

  4. #4
    droz3
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    Re: 0w-20 or 0w-30, or 0w-40???

    You should be able to make an informed decision after having read this link :
    http://www.chris-longhurst.com/carbi...oil_bible.html

  5. #5
    Zowy
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    castrol 5w-50

    It's probably overkill, but I use the Castrol 5w-50 year around. 3.0 2001, with oil changes every 7500 miles. It's the same price as the other viscosity Castrol synthetics.

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    I use Mobil 1 0W40 winters and 15W50 summers.


  7. #7
    Jrrhit
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    It depends upon where you live.

    If you live in the South and temps rarely get below freezing, using a 0w-XX is not necessary. However, if you live where below freezing temps are common, then it is a good idea.

    It is my understanding that the greater the difference between the two numbers, the less reliable the weights. It relates to the idea of trying to be all things to all people. It rarely works well. Best idea is to get an oil that fits your most common driving conditions. If you live in an area where you have distinct seasons, then getting oils for each season is wise. This means changing oil more than once a year but the car will appreciate your consideration.

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    Living in Texas I use Royal Purple 15w-40. I see

    that you are in Austin so using a 0 weight oil isn't what I would do. My 96 came from the factory with non synthetic 15w-40, so I switched to synthetic of the same weight at around 10k miles.
    Fred
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    50 miles west of you and suggest Mobil One 15w-40

    or any premium synthetic 15w-40. There is no mechanical reason to go to 0W in central TX, in fact I've never even seen any shelved.
    Lynn
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    billcat
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    Re: 0w-20 or 0w-30, or 0w-40???

    You should take a couple of issues into consideration, first is what the manual says what range of oils the engine can use. Many new cars are built with very tight tolerences and recomend a 0-30W and if so they shouldn't go over this rating much. Thicker oils will have problems getting though to the bearings and other areas. As the car gets older you can flex this a bit but I wouldn't go over a 0-40w if it's stated it recomends a 0-30W and only if the car has a bit of miles on it and you can only guess by the way you drive it how hard those miles are and the wear that may have occured. If the manual says it can take up to a 50W then do it at your discression by the cold-heat range of your area you live in. I always use synthetics as a rule, the brand is up to the user's choice but do research on them, not all are the same quality.

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    excellent point

    Castrol Syntec 5w50 or 10w40 is all you'll every needJohn
    01 M Roadster. Wilwood calipers & 2 piece rotors, short GC/Koni struts, Eisenmann 83mm pipes, Ireland subs, swing & shock mounts, sport mode, bunch of other stuff.
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    Re: 0w-20 or 0w-30, or 0w-40???

    Thanks for pointing that link out for everyone, it's one of the articles I read before I started using Amsoil myself. One thing it's hazy on is the different types of oil filter material. Amsoil and Mobil 1 use the typical elements found in every filter but they also use (my memory is hazy as well so I may not give the exact material here) some kind of glass synthetic fiber filtering element as well that traps smaller particals. I noticed that Fram is now also offering these types in their higher priced filters. I only use these types.
    When I got my Audi it was using regular pet. based oils and for the first 10seconds the hyd. lifters made quite a racket as oil took it's time to get up to them. After changing to Amsoil they make noise only for about 1 second. It was quite a difference. The car also used more oil due to burnoff before and I can only imagine as there were no leaks or smoke out the exaust that this is where it went with min blowby. With the synthetic I rarely have to add oil for the entire year's use. The car has 250kmi on it and doesn't burn or leak oil and it sure didn't start leaking like a lot of folks worry about when changing over to synthetics. I've never had or seen that problem with Amsoil but can't say anything about other types or brands. I don't drive all that much and only change it once a year and the filter 2 times a year. The smoothness of the engine and added gas mileage and a much quieter engine has sold me on synthetics and after a lot of research I tend to prefer Amsoil to other synthetics but I still list this as more personal than anything.
    Everyone I've converted over to it has been very impressed and won't use pet. based oil again. And no I don't sell the stuff so this isn't an Amsoil advertisement. They just have been at it longer than anyone else and have more experience at it and have a lot wider range of oils to use than other mfg's of synthetics. They are also very wide spread with wearhouses all across the country, when I order it on the web I get it within 2 days at my door every time so far.
    I also agree Never use additives, they are really junk that isn't needed if you have a good engine and use good oil. I've heard more bad than good about them. I may try that mag. wrap around the filter but putting a magnet on the bottom of the oil pan is nuts. The only exception is the drain plug magnets, they work fine but are rare and mainly used on transmissions and rearends. How many people like to almost have to pull their engine in a lot of cars just to remove and clean the oil pan? Than hope they get a good seal replacing it with a new gasket every time. The guy that though that one up should have his head examined or removed at the nearest autoshop gallows.

  13. #13
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    Use only whats recommended. The motor's flow is specific. I own a 1999 k3500..7.4 liter. Its recommendation is 5w30 cause of clearance in the motor itself. Thicker oil with not flow well, so you will have metal on metal issues. Read your manual
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